Sidemen Is the Ubud People Keep Saying They Miss

A Bali By Numbers Article

Every time someone talks about Bali, there is always one comment:

“I wish I could have experienced Ubud ten years ago.”

They want the rice fields, the peaceful mornings, the small locally owned cafés and the feeling that life is moving a little more slowly for the 2016 price. They want affordable accommodation surrounded by nature, traditional villages and experiences that still feel connected to Bali.

But the truth is, you cannot experience Ubud as it was ten years ago while also expecting everything Ubud offers today.

The restaurants, pool clubs, luxury resorts, shopping, wellness centres and endless list of things to do have all contributed to Ubud becoming what it is now. You cannot have that level of development without the crowds, traffic and higher prices that arrive with it.

If what you really want is the feeling of Ubud ten years ago, you may need to stop looking in Ubud.

You may be looking for Sidemen.

The Bali people say they miss

Sidemen sits in the Karangasem region of East Bali, surrounded by rice terraces, mountains, rivers and traditional villages.

It doesn’t have the same enormous choice of restaurants, shops and polished tourist attractions as Ubud—and that is precisely the point.

Sidemen still feels spacious.

You wake to the sound of the river rather than traffic. You can sit quietly, watch the landscape and allow an entire morning to pass without feeling as though you should be rushing off to the next attraction.

This isn’t necessarily the place to visit if you want a packed itinerary, nightlife or dozens of trendy cafés within walking distance.

It is somewhere to go when you want Bali to feel like Bali.

Nanna’s Pool & Bar

Our peaceful stay at The River Island

We stayed for two nights at The River Island in a superior villa that sleeps up to four people and is right on the river with access down to the river.

The villa cost approximately 3,995,000 IDR—or $315 AUD—for two nights, with breakfast included and slept 4 people in 2x double beds.

The property is set beside the river, and it has the type of peaceful atmosphere that is increasingly difficult to find in Bali’s busiest regions. It isn’t ultra-luxury or overly polished, but the natural setting is the luxury.

There is something about being near moving water that forces you to slow down. You stop scrolling, stop rushing and start noticing where you are.

Our dinners at the hotel cost approximately 350,000 IDR—or $28 AUD—each night for 4 people.

For two nights of accommodation, two breakfasts and the convenience of eating dinner beside the river, it felt like excellent value.

Sidemen still has plenty to do

Peaceful does not have to mean boring.

Sidemen may not have Ubud’s endless list of attractions, but it offers enough to create a genuinely memorable two- or three-night escape. If you’re still deciding whether the valley suits your holiday, my Sidemen destination guide is a good place to start.

White-water rafting

The Telaga Waja River is one of Bali’s best-known rafting locations. It gives you the chance to see a completely different side of the landscape while adding some adventure to an otherwise relaxing stay. I explain more about this landscape in The Rivers of Sidemen, and you can check Telaga Waja rafting options on GetYourGuide before deciding whether to book.

One white-water rafting experience cost us 400,000 IDR, or approximately $32 AUD.

It is a brilliant way to break up the slower parts of the trip—particularly if you are travelling with older children, teenagers or adults who want something more active.

Silver making

Sidemen is also a beautiful place to try a traditional silver-making class.

Rather than simply purchasing another souvenir, you get to make something yourself and take home a piece connected to the experience.

A silver-making class with Jati Bali was advertised at 400,000 IDR, or approximately $32 AUD per person.

It is creative, hands-on and still feels more personal than many of the heavily commercialised activities found elsewhere in Bali.

Affordable food is still easy to find

We also visited Nanna’s Pool & Bar, where we ordered two chicken parmi’s, a cheeseburger and a large Bintang.

The total was approximately 230,000 IDR—or just over $18 AUD.

At Sisi Heritage on our drive home we stopped for much needed caffiene, two iced Americanos, a latte and fries came to approximately 73,000 IDR—or less than $6 AUD.

Sidemen does have beautiful boutique restaurants and more expensive dining options, but it is still possible to eat very affordably without feeling as though you are constantly searching for the cheapest place availableWhat our two-night Sidemen trip cost.

Here is the complete breakdown from our stay:

Expense Cost in IDR Approx. AUD

Superior villa for two nights. 3,995,078 $315

Two hotel dinners 700,000 $55

Breakfast for 4, two mornings $0 $0

Nanna’s Pool & Bar 230,000 $18

Sisi Heritage café visit 73,000 $6

Private car for two days 800,000 $63

Fuel 150,000 $12

White-water rafting for 1 pax 400,000 $32

Silver-making class for 1 pax 400,000 $32

Total 6,748,078 $532 AUD

Total USD 380.67 GBP 328.29 EUR281.21

These figures are based on what we paid, using the exchange rate available at the time. Prices and currency conversions will naturally change.

Is Sidemen really Ubud ten years ago?

Not exactly—and I don’t think any destination should exist simply as a substitute for somewhere else.

Sidemen has its own identity, communities and rhythm. The rivers that shape the valley and its working rice fields are a big part of what makes this place special.

But if what you miss—or imagine you missed—about old Ubud is tranquillity, nature, affordability and a more traditional side of Bali, Sidemen may deliver the feeling you are searching for.

The trade-off is that you will not have hundreds of restaurants, large shopping centres or an attraction waiting around every corner.

But perhaps that is the lesson.

We cannot say we want the Bali of ten years ago while also demanding all the conveniences that development has brought. Sometimes, experiencing a quieter side of Bali means accepting fewer choices—and discovering that you didn’t need quite so many choices after all.

Sidemen is not asking you to race through a list of things to do.

It is asking you to sit beside the river, watch the rice fields move in the breeze, make something with your hands, share a meal and remember what it feels like to slow down.

Give Sidemen an opportunity to win your heart.

Want to see exactly what we spent?

You can view the full breakdown of our two-night Sidemen escape—including accommodation, meals, transport and activities—here.

And if you’re trying to work out how much your own Bali holiday will cost, my free Bali Budget Calculator can help you map out your spending before you book.

Budgeting doesn’t mean choosing the cheapest accommodation. It means understanding where your money is going so you can save on the things that matter less—and choose the beautiful accommodation you really want.

My 3 favourite hotels in Bali