Sidemen, Bali: Discover the Bali of 15 Years Ago

Where time slows down, rice terraces stretch as far as the eye can see, and the Bali you fell in love with still exists.

There is a side of Bali that hasn’t forgotten how to slow down. And you’ll find it in Sidemen.

Tucked away in the lush valleys of East Bali, Sidemen (pronounced See-deh-men) is a world away from the beach clubs, bustling cafés and traffic-filled streets of the island’s more popular destinations.

Here, mornings begin with birdsong rather than motorbikes. Farmers tend rice paddies beneath the towering presence of Mount Agung. Small villages follow the rhythms of everyday Balinese life, and the most pressing decision you might make all day is whether to take another dip in the pool or wander down to the rice fields.

For anyone who visited Ubud 15 or 20 years ago and fell in love with its peaceful atmosphere, traditional villages and seemingly endless greenery, Sidemen might just feel like coming home. I explored that comparison, including what our family actually spent, in why Sidemen feels like the Ubud people miss.

And for those visiting Bali for the first time? This is your chance to discover the slower, quieter side of the island.

My very favourite place to stay in Sidemen is The River Island, a locally owned property right on the river. You can read more about it here….

Sidemen: The Ubud of 15 Years Ago

There’s something rather magical about discovering a destination that reminds you of why people fell in love with Bali in the first place.

Years ago, Ubud was known for its quiet streets, traditional artists, small family-run guesthouses and incredible natural beauty. Although much of that culture still exists, today’s Ubud is also a thriving tourism destination filled with fashionable restaurants, luxury boutiques, wellness studios and increasingly busy roads.

There’s nothing necessarily wrong with that. Ubud has evolved into a wonderful destination in its own right. But sometimes, you want something different.

You want the Bali where doing absolutely nothing feels like doing everything.

And that’s where Sidemen comes in.

Located in Karangasem Regency, approximately an hour to an hour and a half east of Ubud, Sidemen is a sprawling valley of emerald rice terraces, tropical forests, traditional villages and winding rivers.

Unlike Ubud, which has developed into a bustling tourist town, Sidemen remains primarily a rural agricultural community.

Its rice fields aren’t simply beautiful backdrops for photographs. They’re working farms, tended by local families whose livelihoods remain connected to the land. My favourite sight in all of Sidemen is seeing a local tending to his ducks.

You’ll still find beautiful boutique hotels, stylish villas and little cafés with breathtaking views. Tourism is certainly growing here, too.

But there’s a noticeable difference. Life in Sidemen doesn’t revolve entirely around visitors. And perhaps that’s what makes it so special.

The Beauty of Doing Absolutely Nothing

If your idea of a holiday involves squeezing five attractions into every day, Sidemen might take a little getting used to. Because the best thing to do here is often nothing at all. At least for a day….

Imagine waking up in a beautiful villa overlooking the river. The morning mist is slowly lifting from the rice terraces, Mount Agung is appearing through the clouds, and somewhere in the distance, a rooster announces the beginning of another day. No traffic sounds. No construction.

There’s no rush to get dressed. No restaurant reservation to make. No traffic to beat.

Just a leisurely breakfast, another coffee and the possibility of spending the entire morning admiring the view.

Of course, there are wonderful experiences waiting beyond your accommodation, from river rafting to learning silver making from local artisans. You can see a Sidemen silver-making class on GetYourGuide, or read more about the waterways in my guide to Sidemen’s rivers. But Sidemen is one of those rare places where you don’t feel guilty for choosing to stay exactly where you are and simply listen to the running water.

It’s a destination that reminds us a holiday doesn’t have to be busy to be memorable.

Rediscover Bali’s Natural Beauty

One of the most extraordinary things about Sidemen is just how overwhelmingly green everything is.

The valley unfolds in layers of rice terraces, coconut palms, banana trees and dense tropical vegetation, with the majestic silhouette of Mount Agung dominating the landscape.

Depending on the time of year and agricultural cycle, the rice fields transform from reflective pools of water into vibrant green carpets before eventually turning golden as harvest approaches.

There are no enormous viewing platforms required to appreciate the scenery.

In many places, simply stepping outside your accommodation is enough.

Early mornings are particularly beautiful, when the air is cooler and the mountains are often more visible before the clouds roll in. For photographers, nature lovers and anyone who finds peace in the outdoors, Sidemen is a dream.

And unlike some of Bali’s better-known rice terraces, much of the landscape can still be enjoyed without navigating large tourist crowds which tend to quickly lose the destinations charm, for me anyway.

Things to Do in Sidemen, Bali

Although slowing down is the main attraction, there are plenty of ways to experience the region’s natural beauty and culture.

1. Wander Through the Rice Terraces

One of the simplest and most rewarding experiences in Sidemen is walking through the rice fields.

Narrow pathways wind between paddies, offering beautiful views across the valley and glimpses into everyday village life.

You might pass farmers working in the fields, small family temples or ducks wandering between the terraces.

Consider booking a local guide who can explain the region’s farming traditions and help you navigate paths crossing private agricultural land. If you’d prefer a structured experience, browse local Sidemen trekking experiences on GetYourGuide and check the precise meeting point before making plans.

The best time to explore is early morning, before the tropical heat becomes uncomfortable.

2. Experience Traditional Balinese Village Life

Sidemen offers an opportunity to experience Balinese culture beyond the island’s tourist attractions.

Traditional family compounds, community temples and village ceremonies remain part of everyday life.

Rather than searching for a particular attraction, spend time exploring the smaller villages, stopping at local warungs and observing daily life respectfully.

Remember that these are people’s homes and workplaces, not tourist exhibits.

A little curiosity and a friendly smile can go a long way.

3. Discover Sidemen’s Traditional Weaving

Sidemen has a long history of producing beautiful handwoven textiles, including traditional songket and endek fabrics.

Visit a local weaving workshop to watch skilled artisans working on traditional looms.

Some workshops also offer opportunities to learn about the weaving process or purchase textiles directly from the makers.

It’s a wonderful way to support local craftsmanship and take home something genuinely meaningful from Bali.

4. Chase Waterfalls and Natural Swimming Spots

The surrounding East Bali region is home to beautiful waterfalls, rivers and lush tropical landscapes.

Gembleng Waterfall is one of the better-known natural attractions near Sidemen, featuring small cascading pools overlooking the surrounding greenery.

It’s a beautiful place to visit, although its popularity has increased in recent years.

Always check local conditions before entering natural pools, particularly following heavy rain.

5. Try Traditional Silver Making in Sidemen

Sidemen is a wonderful place to try your hand at silver making, learning from local artisans rather than simply buying another souvenir. It’s a creative way to spend a couple of hours and take home something you’ve made yourself.

In a hands-on workshop, you’ll learn how silver is shaped and polished into jewellery. Explore this Sidemen silver-making class on GetYourGuide and check the included silver weight before booking.

I love experiences like this because the finished piece feels like a much more personal reminder of your Bali holiday.

6. Take a Balinese Cooking Class

Food is an essential part of the Balinese experience, and a cooking class is a wonderful way to connect with local culture. You can browse cooking classes in Sidemen on GetYourGuide, including hands-on sessions that introduce traditional ingredients and local techniques.

Depending on the experience, you may have the opportunity to explore traditional ingredients, prepare spice pastes and learn how to cook authentic Balinese dishes.

It’s also a lovely activity for families travelling with older children.

7. Go White-Water Rafting or Ride an ATV

This deserves its own place on the list.

If you’re craving something more adventurous between lazy mornings in the valley, consider white-water rafting on the Telaga Waja River. You can check rafting experiences on GetYourGuide, then read my guide to Sidemen’s rivers to learn more about the landscape you’re exploring.

For a different kind of adventure, try an ATV ride on forest and countryside tracks, or combine rafting and quad biking in one day. Browse Sidemen ATV experiences, or see a Telaga Waja rafting and ATV combo. The combo’s ATV riding may be around Ubud rather than Sidemen, so check the itinerary, pickup arrangements and suitability before booking.

Where to Stay in Sidemen

One of the wonderful things about Sidemen is that you don’t necessarily need a luxury budget to enjoy extraordinary accommodation.

The valley is home to everything from simple Balinese homestays to beautifully designed boutique resorts.

How Many Days Should You Spend in Sidemen?

You could visit Sidemen on a day trip from Ubud, but I wouldn’t recommend rushing through.

The beauty of this destination is experiencing its quieter moments.

For most travellers, two nights is the sweet spot.

Two nights gives you enough time to explore the rice terraces, enjoy a leisurely morning and appreciate the valley without feeling rushed.

Three nights allows you to completely settle into the slower pace and perhaps experience a cooking class, weaving workshop or nearby waterfall.

If you’re craving a genuine escape from the busier parts of Bali, you could easily stay longer.

And don’t be surprised if you find yourself wishing you’d booked another night.

How to Get to Sidemen

Sidemen is located in East Bali, within Karangasem Regency.

Approximate driving times are:

Starting point	Driving time
Ubud	1–1.5 hours
Sanur	1–1.5 hours
Canggu	1.5–2.5 hours
Seminyak	1.5–2.5 hours
Ngurah Rai International Airport	1.5–2.5 hours

Travel times vary depending on traffic, weather and your exact accommodation.

The easiest way to reach Sidemen is by arranging a private driver or hotel transfer.

Although you can explore parts of the valley on foot, accommodation and attractions are spread across the countryside.

I recommend arranging transport in advance rather than assuming ride-hailing services will be readily available.

Is Sidemen Worth Visiting With Kids?

Absolutely, particularly if your family enjoys nature, swimming pools and exploring somewhere a little different.

Sidemen isn’t a destination filled with organised children’s attractions, water parks or entertainment centres.

And that’s precisely part of its charm.

Instead, children can spend their days exploring nature, discovering how rice is grown, participating in cooking classes and enjoying beautiful resort pools.

For younger families, we’d recommend choosing accommodation with a good swimming pool or slow flowing shallow river to play in, like the River Island.

It’s also worth considering the location of your accommodation, as some of the area’s hillside villas feature steep staircases, unfenced pools or significant drops that may not suit families with toddlers.

Sidemen might not offer the convenience of Nusa Dua or Sanur, but for families wanting their children to experience a different side of Bali, it can be incredibly rewarding.

Sidemen vs Ubud: Which Should You Choose?

It’s tempting to compare Sidemen and Ubud because they share some of the characteristics that originally made Bali famous.

Both offer beautiful rice terraces, traditional Balinese culture, lush tropical scenery and exceptional accommodation.

But the experience is quite different.

	Sidemen	Ubud
Atmosphere	Quiet, rural and relaxed	Bustling, creative and energetic
Traffic	Generally light	Often heavy
Restaurants	Small warungs and boutique resort dining	Extensive international dining scene
Shopping	Limited	Boutiques, markets and galleries
Accommodation	Homestays, villas and boutique resorts	Everything from budget stays to luxury resorts
Activities	Nature, walking and cultural experiences	Major attractions, wellness, shopping and culture
Nightlife	Very limited	Restaurants, bars and entertainment
Best for	Slowing down and reconnecting with nature	Travellers wanting variety and convenience

Our recommendation? Experience both (if you have time).

Spend a few days enjoying Ubud’s restaurants, shopping and cultural attractions before heading east to Sidemen to slow down.

You’ll discover two very different sides of Bali, both with something special to offer.

The Bali You Dream About Still Exists

There’s a common narrative that Bali has changed beyond recognition.

That the peaceful villages, spectacular landscapes and slower way of life that originally attracted travellers have disappeared beneath beach clubs, luxury resorts and Instagram-famous cafés.

And while parts of the island have undeniably changed, that isn’t the whole story.

Because the Bali you dream about is still here.

Sometimes you simply need to venture a little further to find it.

Sidemen reminds us that Bali has always been about more than beautiful beaches and luxurious resorts.

It’s about the landscapes. The traditions. The people.

And that unmistakable feeling of slowing down the moment you arrive.

Perhaps the most beautiful thing about Sidemen is that it doesn’t ask you to do anything extraordinary.

It simply invites you to be present.

To watch the clouds drift across Mount Agung.

To listen to the birds in the morning.

To appreciate the beauty of a landscape that has sustained local communities for generations.

And to remember that sometimes, the most extraordinary travel experiences come from doing very little at all.

If you’re searching for the Bali of 15 years ago, Sidemen might be exactly what you’re looking for.

Lila x

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